Somewhat surprisingly, this was our first comparison of six bottles of Chenin Blanc. Paired into teams of two, we pitted Team France against Team South Africa and Team United States.
Overall, we were happy with how well these matched with a range of foods, and while all shared similar aromatics and high acids, each entry seemed different from each other in interesting ways.
Not only was the winner unanimous, but it was also the best value of the night at only $15. Jamie reached into her cellar, bringing a Saumur with 12 years of age on it, which was an excellent comparison to the younger Vouvray that Josephine provided. But it was South Africa winning the night with a total of 47 points, an impressive showing.
Some photography by Andy.
First Place: Bosman Chenin Blanc 8th Generation 2024 (Coastal Region). Clear and pretty in the glass, with an inviting nose of peaches, chamomile tea, green pears, limestone, and tarragon. Ali detected "pineapple sweat." Crisp and vibrant, with excellent balance on the palate, showing a little bit of weight. Tasters found flavors of stone fruits, ripe pear, radish, and unripe raspberries on the finish. Jamie decided that it was "a good party guest." Harmonious, enjoyable, and an outstanding value. This was the favorite wine of all six tasters, for a total of 36 points. David's bottle. About $15.
Second Place: Kiona Chenin Blanc Old Vine 2023 (Columbia Valley). Light and clear, with a hint of green. Shy on the nose, and a little saline, but with light hints of oak and wax. Josephine found "broken stems." Jamie noted that there was a surprising amount of weight and texture on the palate. Sea air, red grapefruit, and flower petal flavors. Some wax on the finish. Delicious. 16 points. Ali's bottle. About $20.
Third Place: Botanica Wines Chenin Blanc Mary Delany 2022 (Citrusdal Mountain). More golden in color compared to most, with a nose of white mushrooms, bruised pear, shallot, marshmallows, Lipton iced tea, and banana candy. Ali detected "spent spearmint and banana", while Josephine found "slight acetone in the banana spectrum." Savory in the mouth, but also tastes somewhat artificial, feeling heavier and perhaps not completely dry. 11 points. Kristin's bottle. About $39.
Domaine du Petit Coteau Vouvray Cuvée Grenouilles 2021. Light in color, with a bright, vibrant nose. Tasters detected aromas of lanolin, Meyer lemon, coconut, orange peel, Dijon mustard, and dill. Saline, with good intensity. Ali noted that it "smells like Easter." Electric acidity on the palate, and not as weighty as some others, showing flavors of kumquat, and river rock. Fresh and vibrant. Nice minerality. A summer wine. 10 points. Josephine's bottle. About $22.
Aperture Chenin Blanc 2022 (Clarksburg). This shocked us on the nose, showing gas station scents of tire, oil, and rubber glove, plus notions of honeysuckle and lime peel. Flavors of lime Lifesaver, pears, butterscotch candy, and pickles. High acidity. Some bitterness around the edge. 7 points. Andy's bottle. About $32.
Château de Brézé Samur Clos David 2013. Very golden hue. This was unlike any of the others, offering unusual aromas of cooked honey, bees wax, peanut brittle, and salted caramel. David was reminded of "limes that are past." Lots of acid, and reminiscent of lime juice, apple cider vinegar, toasty bread, shitake mushrooms, and bruised apple. Baking spices on the finish. A little strange and weird to most of us, but also very interesting. A winter white. 4 points. Jamie's bottle. About $40.
MAY 2025: CHENIN BLANC BATTLE
